Vol 3 - Watch Design Guide: Exploring the Styles of Timepieces
Last updated: Oct 2023 | Est. 10 minsWatches have long been a symbol of style and sophistication, and for good reason. A well-made watch not only tells time, but also serves as an expression of one's personal taste and style. In the last digest, we discussed the 10 attributes that impact a watch's value (read here).
Today, we'll dive into the designs of watches available, from sports watches to dress watches, and everything in between. By the end of this article, you'll have a comprehensive understanding of watch designs, having all the information you need to choose the timepiece for your lifestyle and taste with the buying guides I’ll be sharing in the coming digests.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. #3700
5 Distinct Angles to Understanding Watch Design:
Dress vs Sports, Complications, Sizes, Eras, and Materials
1/5 - Sports vs Dress Watches
The main variance in watch design is the difference between sports and dress watches.
Sports watches are designed to be able to withstand wear and tear while performing physical activities and explorations. They often feature metal bracelets and thicker movements. Sports watches are designed for various use cases such as deep-sea diving, summit explorations, military operations, pilot timezones, stop-watch precisions, and sports playing, to name a few. They are each designed with visual features and watch complications that optimize for the intended purpose of each use case. Overtime, many of these designs have become iconic fashion styles that transcended its original design purpose. While they come in various materials, stainless steel sports watches are considered by most collectors to be the most versatile watches in the market today.
On the other hand, dress watches are typically more understated and designed to be worn in civilized terrains. They often feature non-metal straps and thinner, more elegant watch profiles. Dress watches can be worn with sophistication under the cuff of a dress shirt just as well as in t-shirt and jeans, making them a popular choice for more sophisticated, formal, and understated occasions. While there are many complications that can be designed into a dress watch that also support sports purposes, dress watch designs are largely sought after for their execution of elegance, class, and sophistication.
2/5 - Complications
Complications refer to any additional function beyond telling time that a watch might have. There are many different types of complications. Some of the most sought after designs include day/date, moon phase, calendar, GMT, chronometer, and tourbillon.
Day/date complications display the day and date, often in a window on the watch face. Moon phase complications display the phases of the moon. Calendar complications can display the day, month, and year. GMT complications display multiple time zones, while chronometer complications measure accuracy to a high degree.
When it comes to the design of complications, most of the features are no longer useful in today’s world of highly accurate timekeeping on our mobile phones. However, complications as a watch design aesthetic can drastically elevate the sophistication and beauty in the design of a watch, compared to its time-only counterparts. While most in-demand models on the market are complication dials, the beauty of each watch ultimately depends on the execution of its design elements.
3/5 - Size
Watch size is an important aspect of watch design that has evolved over time. In the past, watches tended to be smaller, but as fashion trends changed, watch sizes have increased to become larger and more prominent. Today, watch sizes can be categorized as small sizes below 35mm, mid-sizes between 36-39mm, and large sizes at over 40mm. Typically, the advice from collectors is to find the range of sizes that fit your own unique wrist and taste.
Overwhelmingly, the industry has been pushing large size watches to retail consumers over the past 2 decades due to market demands, even though many brands’ modern selection of offerings are too large for buyers with mid-small size wrists. What drove this recent market demand for large watches can be dissected in 2 factors as watches have recently emerged as a statement of fashion: 1) collectors with larger wrists have historically never had the right size watches made for them so brands are looking to fill that gap, and 2) there is a subset of buyers who prefer larger sizes to trout recognizable mechanical watches as symbols of status, without regard of its aesthetic appeal on their small wrists.
Example of a watch with the “perfect size fit”
Editor’s note: My advice would always be to find watches with designs that captivate you personally, in the size that fits your wrist the most aesthetically.
4/5 - Era
Watch designs can be categorized into three main eras: vintage, neo-vintage, and modern. Each era has its own unique characteristics and designs, with different seeking points and drawbacks.
Vintage watches were produced from the early 1900s up to the late 1980s. These watches are known for their charming patina and classic designs, featuring smaller watch cases and elegant dials. However, vintage watches are fragile and can be more challenging to maintain than newer watches. They also may not be as accurate as modern watches, as they often do not feature quartz movements. Collectors often seek out vintage watches for their historical significance and unique design elements.
Vintage Rolex Daytona in 37mm Casing
Neo-vintage watches were produced in the 1990s and early 2000s, inspired by vintage watch designs with modern improvements. These watches often feature larger watch cases and updated movements, while still maintaining the classic charm of vintage watches. They have a unique appeal, blending the classic designs of vintage watches with modern technologies. However, as with vintage watches, they may not be as reliable or durable as modern watches, and may require more maintenance.
Neo-vintage Rolex Daytona in Modern Size with Vintage Dial Patina
Modern watches are the most recent era of watch design, featuring advanced materials, technologies, and manufacturing processes. These watches are typically larger in size, with more robust and accurate movements. They often feature high-tech materials such as ceramics, carbon fiber, and titanium, making them more durable and resistant to wear and tear. However, some collectors may find modern watches to be too thick and chunky, lacking the charm and elegance of vintage and neo-vintage watches.
Modern Rolex Daytona Design
5/5 - Materials
The materials used in watch designs are just as important as the design itself. Different materials can drastically change the aesthetic of the watch. Some of the most common materials used in watch designs include stainless steel, gold, titanium, ceramic, and carbon fiber.
Stainless steel is a popular choice for sports and casual watches, as it is durable, versatile, and relatively affordable. Gold is often used in dress and high-end sports watches, as it adds a touch of luxury and elegance to the design. Titanium is a lightweight and durable material, commonly used in sports watches due to its resistance to corrosion and wear. Ceramic is a highly scratch-resistant material that is often used in modern sports watches for its superior build quality. Carbon fiber is a high-tech material that is lightweight, durable, and often used in ultra-niche sports and racing watches.
Most collectors will advise to start with stainless steel, then slowly add other precious metal materials into your collection later on as you refine and grow your personal taste.
As you can see, understanding watch design is a complex but fascinating aspect in a collector’s journey. By understanding the design angles of sports and dress watches, complications, sizes, eras, and materials, you can start to narrow down your options and find the perfect timepiece to suit your personal style and needs.
In our next article, we'll delve into the fascinating world of watch brand provenance, exploring the history and legacy of some of the most popular watch brands in today's market. Stay tuned for more insights and buying guides to help you make informed decisions when it comes to investing in your own watch collection.
